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Sweet Success: A Guide to Planting and Caring for Strawberry Plants

Imagine just heading out to the garden for a bucket full of sweet, ripe strawberries! Growing your own is much easier than you think and this article will show you how. Strawberries will grow in most zones and can even be grown in containers (with a little extra care). And once you plant, you’ll be able to harvest for years.

In this guide, we’ll walk you through the steps to plant and care for strawberry plants, from soil preparation to harvest and winter care.

Choosing the Right Plants

Strawberry plants are quite adaptable and can grow in most USDA hardiness zones, but are typically grown in zones 3 to 10. Gardeners in colder zones (3 to 6) should choose more hardy varieties while those in warmer zones need to choose plants better suited to heat and humidity. Just check the plant label for that variety’s characteristics.

Cold Hardy Variety | Ozark Beauty Here

Heat Tolerant Variety | Super Sweet Everbearing Here

Strawberry plants also come in varieties with different harvest times and quantities. This comes down to your personal preference and, in some cases, when you want to harvest. For example, if you’re planning to make jam, you’d want to pick all your berries at once so you’d choose a June-bearing variety. We’ve listed more details below but be sure to check your plant tag when ordering.

1. June-bearing strawberries:

June-bearing strawberries, also known as “short-day” strawberries, typically produce a single large crop of berries in late spring to early summer (usually during the month of June). These plants tend to produce the largest with the most intense flavor. After the initial harvest, June-bearing plants may send out runners to propagate new plants. Gardeners often prune these runners to focus the plant’s energy on fruit production.

2. Everbearing strawberries:

Everbearing strawberries, as the name suggests, produce multiple crops of berries throughout the growing season. While they typically have a smaller overall yield compared to June-bearing varieties, they offer the advantage of producing strawberries from spring through fall. Unlike June-bearing varieties, everbearing strawberries may not send out as many runners, and they may not require as much pruning.

3. Day-neutral strawberries:

Day-neutral strawberries are a relatively newer type of strawberry plant that has been bred to produce fruit regardless of day length or temperature. These plants are not as sensitive to the length of daylight hours as June-bearing varieties, allowing them to flower and fruit continuously throughout the growing season, from spring to fall. Day-neutral strawberries typically produce smaller berries but offer the advantage of a longer harvest period and greater flexibility in planting and growing conditions. They are well-suited for gardeners who want a steady supply of strawberries throughout the summer months.

Strawberry plants are a great pollinator attractors as they’re covered in tiny, fragrant blooms each spring. Not only lovely but bees cannot resist stopping by for a visit!

Planting Specifics

Strawberry plants thrive in slightly acidic, well-drained soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.8 and need full sun. For bigger harvests, mix in compost or organic matter before planting.

Choose a location with room to spread, spacing them about 12” to 18” apart in rows. Dig a hole that is slightly bigger than the root ball and set the plant in the ground at the same depth as the pot. The crown of the plant (where the roots meet the leaves) should be slightly above ground. Fill the hole in with soil and tamp down slightly.

After planting, water thoroughly so soil settles around the roots. Layer straw or organic, food-safe mulch around the plants but avoid touching the stems. Keep well-watered for the first few weeks until plants are established. Note: it is normal for plant leaves to look a little wilted right after planting, they will come back quickly!

If you’re planting in containers, you must protect the roots from freezing temperatures if you want them to survive over the winter. You can bury the pot in the soil and cover with straw or insulate the entire pot with lots of straw and store in an area that won’t get heavy wind. Do not store in a heated garage or basement, the plant needs to go dormant for a few months out of the year.

Summer Care for Strawberry Plants

Strawberry plants are easy care garden plants and only need regular watering and minimal fertilizer (if you’re using compost or organic matter in your soil). Avoid over-fertilizing, as excessive nitrogen can result in lush foliage but minimal fruit production. The best watering method is with a soaker hose laid near the plants; overhead watering can damage the leaves.

Don’t Pick the First Year!

For the healthiest plants and biggest future harvests, it’s best to not pick strawberries in the first year of growth. It’s okay to sample a few, just leave the bulk of the fruit on the plant. This helps the plant establish strong roots which will carry them through their first winter and give you more robust plants and harvests next season.

In late fall or early spring, prune back any dead or diseased foliage but leave the bulk of the plant over winter. Remove any runners that have strayed from the main plant (or into areas you don’t want the plants to grow), as they can divert energy away from fruit production. Be sure to keep the plant watered until freezing temperatures are forecasted.

After the first frost, apply a thick layer of straw (this is where they get their name) over the plants to insulate the soil and protect the crowns from freezing. Additionally, consider covering the strawberry bed with row covers or a layer of straw for added protection if you live in an area with extreme deep freezes.

Second Season Plant Care.

Now the fun starts! When spring arrives and you know the temperatures will stay above freezing, it’s time to uncover your strawberry plants. Carefully pull back straw that’s covering the plants but leave most of the straw in place as mulch to help retain water. Keep the plants watered and let them grow. Within weeks you’ll see robust foliage and tiny blossoms which each will turn into a sweet, juicy strawberry. And now you can pick them all!

To pick strawberries, just gently twist the berry off the plant. They will release easily when ripe. Don’t pull or tug as you may damage the plant. Growing your own means you can wait to pick when berries are at their peak ripeness.

Sharing your Crop with Birds and Critters.

Your family is not the only one who loves fresh strawberries! You’ll have berry thieves stopping by frequently, especially birds. If you choose to put netting over your plants, please choose the smallest possible weave because birds can get stuck in netting. Or you can just choose to share a few berries with the animals who call your yard home!

From this season forward, you can pick as many berries as the plant produces. Over a few years, the original plants will start producing less berries but the runners they send out will take up the slack. If you have the room to let them spread, you will have strawberries for as long as you want.

The fall and winter care for subsequent seasons are the same as shown above and each winter you should cover your plants with straw to protect them from extreme temperatures.

Growing strawberries at home is a delightful journey filled with anticipation, care, and ultimately, sweet rewards. By following these simple steps for planting and caring for your strawberry plants, you’ll be well on your way to enjoying a bountiful harvest of fresh, flavorful berries year after year. So roll up your sleeves, dig in the dirt, and let the magic of gardening unfold as you nurture your own patch of sweet success.

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Composting 101: How to Make Compost and Use It In The Garden

Composting food scraps and garden debris is one of the easiest sustainable practices you can take on. And your reward is rich, nutritious soil you can use in your garden and patio pots! You don’t fancy equipment or a lot of space and within one season, you can “grow” a large, usable amount of compost soil. Best of all, you create a cycle of sustainability in your garden. This article will teach how to start a compost pile, how to feed it, and how to maintain it through the season.

The Basics of Composting

Creating composted soil depends on decomposition and decay of organic materials. Each compost pile is a balance of browns (dry material such as fall leaves or wood shavings) and greens (such as produce scraps or grass clippings). Too much of either and the balance is thrown off (you’ll know right away because it will look and smell funny). In this mixture, will be active bacteria, worms, and insects with a little heat thrown in. Together they break each piece down into nutrient-dense, organic material that plants absolutely thrive in.

You cannot put meat, dairy or processed foods (like bread) in your compost pile as it will upset this balance (and attract unwanted critters). You can, however, sparingly add coffee grounds, eggshells, or ashes. Again, the smell and feel will tell you right away if there’s too much of one thing. (We cover this in detail in another blog post, “Compost Troubleshooting” here.)

Where to Locate Your Compost Pile

Compost piles need heat to work so choose a spot that gets lots of sunshine and (if using a barrel), choose a dark color that will absorb the heat. Don’t choose a location too far away from where you normally work outside or is hard to access in the winter. But you also don’t want it close to any neighbors who may not appreciate the process. It is decaying material and not the most beautiful part of gardening!

Types of Compost Containers

There are two common compost set-ups: a closed bin or barrel or an open, fenced in area that sits on the ground. This allows beneficial insects and worms easier access but can be unsightly. A bin or barrel is more practical in cases with limited yard space or where keeping the pile completely contained is necessary.

An open bin style works well on larger properties with lots of compost material. As shown in the photo, you can even create a multi-step system where new material goes into one bin and then is moved through each new bin as it decomposes. An open system is more susceptible to critters and should be covered to avoid too much moisture.

Choosing which type of storage is really based on personal preference and location. When done correctly, a compost pile will not smell bad but it can attract critters (if left open). For urban and residential properties, most people choose a closed container such as a large plastic tub or a barrel on a stand. This method also limits the quantity of compost produced and it is unwieldly to get the finished product out.

DIY Compost Bins

You can build your own compost pile by installing a three-walled enclosure built as you would a fence. This structure uses bare ground as its floor and the opening allows you to turn the compost with a rake or shovel. The drawback with this method is it will attract critters when you drop in fresh kitchen scraps.

For enclosed barrels, choose a large garbage can or barrel with a removable lid. Poke holes along the sides, bottom, and lid so air can move through and water can get in and drain out. Many large home stores and online retailers also offer premade compost barrels – some on a stand with a hand crank so you can easily give it a turn each day.

What to Add to Your Compost Pile


Start with twigs, straw, ash, hay, or another dry/brown material as your foundation. This allows the bottom of the pile to have more aeration and not become a slimy mess at the bottom. Your first layer, and every other layer thereafter should have a healthy dose of loose, dry, brown debris. Avoid large sticks, branches, or logs, as they can slow down the process. Larger things are harder to compost so be sure to break them down into smaller pieces before adding them.

Add produce scraps, grass clippings, and plant debris but do not add meat, dairy, or oily and processed foods. Avoid using too many onions or citrus peels. They break down slowly and can kill off beneficial insects. Using kitchen scraps is a great way to reduce your indoor garbage and utilize things you would otherwise throw away. Keep a container with a tight-fitting lid in the kitchen where you store scraps until you’re ready to add it to your pile.

Any green plant matter can also be added but avoid adding weeds or leaves from diseases plants (such as tomato blight). These will remain in the finished compost and spread new weeds or disease when you use it next season.

Animal waste, or manure, is also a form of green compost. Avoid using dog or cat waste in gardens for crops meant for consumption. Their waste contains microorganisms that aren’t ideal for a healthy garden, especially ones growing food. For those of us that have fish, tank water is an excellent resource to use for your pile! Tank water is rich in nitrogen and phosphorus, both of which are important to maintaining your pile’s carbon cycle. Just be sure not to use too much water, as this can cause your compost to become overly soggy. Store excess in gallon jugs to use later!

Other excellent choices for the inclusion of animal waste are chicken, cow, horse, sheep and goat waste. Unless any of the animals are being medicated (aside from vaccinations), their waste is completely safe to use! Medications like antibiotics can be passed through the waste and into the crops. If the animals are sick, and/or on medication, avoid using their waste until they are healthy.

Brown scraps are usually found outside in the yard. Fallen leaves, dried grass clippings, chicken bedding, or small twigs. These materials are also the ideal foundation for your outdoor pile!

Maintaining Your Compost Pile


Having a good ratio of green scraps and brown scraps is the key to a successful compost. 50% green to 50% brown is a good ratio of each, and if layered correctly, there won’t be much maintenance. Composting, for the most part, will take care of itself. Checking on it occasionally and turning it with a pitch fork or shovel is about all that needs to be done to the pile – typically after adding scraps or at least twice per month. If the pile becomes overly soggy or starts to have a foul odor, toss in some brown scraps, make sure it gets mixed well and has plenty of aeration.

A healthy pile will stay at an average temperature of 150 degrees. This keeps things moving, including insects and microbes that all work together to help along the nitrogen cycle. Towards the end of the process, it will have cooled down significantly. If it’s cold out, the temperature will most likely be much lower depending on the size of your set up.

Once the compost turns a rich brown color and has an earthy smell, it’s ready to use! By this stage, everything you put in the pile should be completely broken down and unrecognizable. The pile will also have cooled down in temperature. Just scoop it out and mix it into your existing garden beds with a fork or shovel.

Composting in Winter

If you have a pile that isn’t finished and winter is nearing, don’t worry. Worst case scenario, the process is slowed down. Keep your compost taller and wider if you’re banking to keep your pile going during the winter. This will allow for the organisms breaking your compost down to stay alive and thrive in the winter months. If you live in an area that gets extremely cold during the winter, be sure to start it in a place where it stays sunny most of the day, and expect the process to be a bit slower.

Maintaining compost isn’t a difficult process and anyone can do it. It is an excellent addition to the garden, will yield beautiful crops, and is an awesome way to sustain the garden season after season!

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Pico De Gallo

Delicious fresh salsa recipe that everyone loves.
Print Recipe Pin Recipe
Course Appetizer
Cuisine Mexican

Ingredients
  

  • 4 pounds ripe beefsteak or plum tomatoes chopped (with skin)
  • 3 cups onion, purple or white chopped
  • 1 cup fresh cilantro chopped
  • 3 small hot peppers chopped, remove seeds
  • 6 TB lime juice, fresh
  • 6 cloves garlic finely minced
  • 1 tsp salt

Instructions
 

  • Stir all ingredients together and serve immediately with chips or fresh veggies.
Keyword fresh salsa, heirloom tomato recipes, hot pepper recipes, pico de gallo
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A Spicy Adventure: How to Grow Hot Peppers Like a Pro

Hot peppers, with their fiery personalities and vibrant colors, are a delight to grow and cultivate. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting out, growing hot peppers can be a rewarding and spicy adventure. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk through everything you need to know to grow hot peppers like a pro, from choosing the right varieties to harvesting your bounty.

Shop the B2G1 Hot Pepper Collection at Clovers Garden

Getting Started: Choosing the Right Varieties

Hot peppers come in a wide range of shapes, sizes, flavors, and heat levels. From the mild heat of jalapeños to the fiery intensity of habaneros to the off the chart heat of Carolina Reapers, there’s a pepper out there to suit every taste preference. When selecting varieties to grow, consider your climate, available space, and desired level of heat. Some popular varieties to consider include:

Jalapeño: A versatile pepper with medium heat, perfect for adding a kick to salsas, sauces, and more.

Habanero: Known for its intense heat and fruity flavor, the habanero is not for the faint of heart but can add a bold punch to dishes.

Thai Gong Bao: Small but mighty, these peppers pack a serious heat punch and are commonly used in Thai cuisine.

Cayenne: Long and slender, cayenne peppers are prized for their spicy flavor and are often dried and ground into powder for use in seasoning blends.

Ghost Pepper (Bhut Jolokia): One of the hottest peppers in the world, the ghost pepper boasts a Scoville heat rating that will leave even the most seasoned chili heads sweating.

Planting and Care Tips

Once you’ve selected your pepper varieties, it’s time to get your hands dirty and start planting. Here are some tips to ensure your hot peppers thrive:

Choose a Sunny Spot: Hot peppers love warmth and sunshine, so choose a location in your garden that receives at least 6-8 hours of sunlight per day.

Prepare the Soil: Hot peppers prefer well-draining soil with a pH of around 6.0 to 6.8. Amend your soil with compost or aged manure to improve fertility and drainage.

Planting: Plant your pepper seedlings outdoors after the danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed to at least 60°F (15°C). Space plants 18-24 inches apart to allow for proper air circulation and growth.

Pepper plants also do well in pots and are perfect for small balcony or patio gardens. Choose a pot big enough for the plant to mature (they will grow to about 10x the size of the seedling). When planting in pots, it’s important to keep the soil well-fed and watered as they will dry out more quickly than in ground gardens.

Support: Large plants will benefit from supports such as a cage or trellis to hold heavy branches. As the fruit grows keep an eye on the branches and tie them up if they start to crack or bend.

Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but overwatered. Water deeply once or twice a week, depending on weather conditions and soil moisture levels.

Fertilizing: Feed your pepper plants with a balanced fertilizer high in potassium (such as a 5-10-10 or 10-10-10 blend) every 4-6 weeks throughout the growing season to promote healthy growth and fruit production.

Interesting Facts About Hot Peppers

Peppers are such a unique fruit, here’s some fun facts to share at your next BBQ:

Scoville Heat Scale: The heat of hot peppers is measured on the Scoville scale, which quantifies the amount of capsaicin, the compound responsible for their spiciness. The higher the Scoville rating, the hotter the pepper. For example, a mild jalapeño typically ranges from 2,500 to 8,000 Scoville heat units (SHU), while a fiery habanero can reach up to 350,000 SHU or more.

Capsaicin and Endorphins: When you eat spicy food, your body’s response to the capsaicin in hot peppers triggers the release of endorphins, natural chemicals in the brain that create a sense of pleasure and well-being. That’s why some people crave spicy food and even experience a “spice high” from consuming hot peppers.

Birds and Peppers: Hot peppers evolved their spiciness as a defense mechanism against mammals that would otherwise eat their fruit and destroy the seeds inside. Surprisingly, birds are immune to the heat of peppers due to a lack of capsaicin receptors in their mouths, making them important seed dispersers for pepper plants in the wild.

Health Benefits: Beyond their fiery flavor, hot peppers are packed with health benefits. Capsaicin has been shown to have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and pain-relieving properties, and regular consumption of spicy foods has been linked to a reduced risk of certain chronic diseases, including heart disease and cancer.

Cultural Significance: Hot peppers have a rich cultural history and play a prominent role in cuisines around the world. From the spicy curries of India to the salsa-drenched tacos of Mexico, peppers add depth and complexity to dishes, as well as a touch of culinary adventure.

Harvesting and Enjoying Your Peppers

Peppers plants will bear fruit from 60 days (small sweet peppers) to 150 days (some hot peppers). Unlike most garden plants, fruits can be picked at every stage from green to red. Unless you’re planting a unique variety with brown or purple fruit, the pepper will go from green to yellow to orange to red. At red, the fruit is at its ripest point and will be at the sweetest or hottest depending on the variety.

To pick the pepper, gently twist at the stem or use a clean cutting shears. Do not pull on the pepper as you may dislodge the plant from the soil. For extra hot varieties, wear gloves when picking! Even the oils of the leaf and stem are hot.

Store harvested peppers in a cool, dry place or refrigerate them in a paper bag for up to two weeks. You can also freeze peppers whole or chopped for longer-term storage.

Whether you dice them into salsa, pickle them for a tangy crunch, or dry them for homemade chili powder, there are countless ways to enjoy your homegrown hot peppers. Get creative in the kitchen and experiment with different recipes to showcase the unique flavors and heat levels of your peppers.

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How Much Food Can One Small Garden Grow?

In 2022 we grew nearly 300 pounds of food + cut flowers + maple syrup from our in town 1/4 acre urban homestead. And in 2023 we grew even more by just adding a few more container gardens and planting flowers in new places. We grew it all completely organically without a ton of work. This article shows how much of each kind of veggie we harvested in 2022 and three easy changes we made to bump the harvest.

These results really show that you do not need a huge acreage or a homestead to grow a large amount of food for your family. And it doesn’t take a ton of work (as long as you’re willing to live with a few weeds!)

We do not have a big garden! In total, the raised beds are around 600 square feet, we have two Haralson apple trees, 6 neighborhood maple trees, two rhubarb plants, and six deck pots (in 2023 we upped this to 12 pots). Plus every corner I can find is planted with perennial or annual flowers.

We live right in town with neighbors on all sides. We have busy work schedules and are gone a lot so we don’t spend a lot of time on maintenance or replanting (so this garden could have probably grown even more!). This harvest is more than enough for our small family and we ended up sharing with neighbors and taking a lot to the food shelf.

Three things we added that made a huge difference:

  1. I put a water filter on my hose – this is normally attached to RVs to filter the water coming into the camper. I have treated city water and I’ve always wondered if that affected the plants. I can say it does and I think this change is one factor in such a great garden season. These are not inexpensive and can be found online, just search “RV/Marine inline water filter”
  2. I added soaker hoses to my vegetable garden and put it on a timer. Highly recommend the timer because you will forget you turned it on! This kept everything at a much more consistent moisture level and it protected tomatoes from soil splash which causes blight. And side note: I did not have blight on my tomatoes this year for the first time in 10 years!
  3. I let volunteers grow and did not till in the spring. Last fall I decided to leave garden debris in my garden to build up the soil quality and give critters food and habitat. I also didn’t till the garden up before planting. Wow, did I have volunteer plants! Sunflowers, tomatoes, lettuce, broccoli, and parsley. The sunflowers produced a lot of seeds and both the tomatoes and cucumbers used the sporadically-spaced sunflowers at trellises. (You have to be willing to love non-straight rows and haphazard planting to like this kind of garden!)

Here’s what we harvested in one season:

Maple syrup: the first harvest of the year, we made 2 gallons of pure maple syrup

Rhubarb: enough to make two large rhubarb crisps and 8 pints of jam. Also made a few pints of hot pepper rhubarb jam (recipe here)

Lettuce, Spinach, Kale, Swiss Chard: 15 gallon bags

Parsley: made 1 quart of chimichurri and used all summer fresh

Basil: made 2 quarts of pesto and used all summer fresh

Mint: made 5 batches of mojitos, made 2 quarts infused tincture for sore throats

Dill: picked multiple batches for pickles and dried herbs

Thyme, Rosemary, Sage: Used all summer and made 3 pounds of herb infused butter (just mix fresh herbs with softened butter and roll into a log. Wrap in wax paper and freeze. Then just slice off as needed.

Kohlrabi: 10 plants, ate raw and roasted and sauteed the greens

Zucchini: harvested 47 zucchini, most about 8″ long

Cucumbers: harvested 212 cucumbers (!)

Green beans: harvested 7 gallon bags

Peas: harvested 3 gallon bags

Roma and Beefsteak Tomatoes: picked 38 tomatoes from 4 plants, made 8 quarts of tomato sauce plus lots of fresh slices and salsa.

Cherry Tomatoes: picked 4 gallon bags from 3 plants. One cherry tomato plant grew as tall as the sunflower using it as a trellis.

Peppers: harvested 15 peppers off 2 plants.

Carrots: 25 carrots, largest one was 2” in diameter

Apples: grew almost 2 bushels of apples but the bees and ladybugs got at about ½ bushel before we picked them.

Sunflowers: All my sunflowers were volunteer this year and each stalk grew at least 5 heads, some grew 12! I let them dry in the garden and a lot of the seeds got eaten by the birds. After picking this week and shucking, we ended up with about 1 gallon of seeds. We’ll feed these to the birds and save some for planting next year.

Cut flowers: I had fresh bouquets in the house from May until this past week! And I harvested zinnia, daisy, cosmos, and salvia seeds from the dried flowers for planting next year.

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How to Make Herb Infused Simple Syrup

Herb Infused Simple Syrup

Delicious addition to cocktails, iced tea, or mixed with club soda. Preserve the fresh taste of summer with the easy recipes that freezes well.
Print Recipe
Course Drinks

Ingredients
  

  • 1/2 cup fresh herb leaves (stems removed)
  • 1 cup white sugar
  • 1 cup water

Instructions
 

  • Bring to boil and let simmer for 1 minute. Gently muddle leaves to release flavor. Cover and let steep for 30 minutes. Strain leaves and refrigerate or freeze. Use in cocktails or add to sparkling water or iced tea.
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How to Plant Perennials in the Fall

Late-summer and early fall is the best time of year to plant perennials if you live in zones that have a winter freeze. Fall planting forces the plant to put energy into root growth which builds a stronger plant with bigger blooms. The cooler days and nights also mean the plant doesn’t have to work as hard to stay cool or hydrated. The key is to give the plant enough time to get established before the first freeze. This article will teach you how to plant perennials in the fall (or winter if you live in warmer zones such as 8 to 10). So, roll up your sleeves, grab your gardening tools, and embrace the magic of fall planting!

Putting Down Strong Roots

One of the most compelling reasons to plant perennial flowers in the fall is the incredible boost it provides to root growth. During this time, the soil remains warm from the summer heat, creating the ideal environment for root establishment. As the air temperature cools down, plants shift their energy focus from producing flowers to building strong and extensive root systems.

One key thing to remember, though, you must keep the newly planted perennial well-watered. Most areas have less rainfall in the autumn so it’s up to you to provide that for your plant. After planting, use a thick layer of mulch to retain moisture (keep away from plant stem). Then when you water, use a gentle soaking stream of water about 3” away from the plant (but all the way around it) so the roots will reach down and out to get to the water. Do not fertilize the plant because this encourages leaf and blossom growth.

Choosing the Right Plants

Many cold hardy perennials, shrubs and trees are excellent candidates for fall planting. In general, plants with USDA cold hardiness ratings of 4, 5, and 6, are the best candidates for fall transplanting in cold winter climates. Be sure to choose healthy plants with lots of roots. Before planting, trim off broken branches or blossoms.

Once planted, treat like a regular transplant. Do not cut back before winter but you can trim any dead growth off in the spring. If the area where you plant will not get good snow cover, cover with straw or mulch after the first hard freeze. This will ensure the plant will not grow more but will protect the new root system.

Planting Time by USDA Hardiness Zones

To make the most of fall planting, it’s essential to consider the best times based on your USDA Hardiness Zone. You must plant at least six weeks before your typical first frost or freeze date. Find your zone on this map or by inputting your zip code into the USDA website (here):

The Promise of Future Blooms

When you plant perennial flowers in the fall, you are essentially making an investment in your garden’s future beauty. While these newly planted perennials may not display an abundance of blooms immediately, they are quietly preparing for a spectacular show in the next growing season. Come spring, the well-established roots will support vigorous growth and abundant flowering.

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How To Grow Fresh Herbs Indoors.

You don’t have to give up on fresh herbs once gardening season is over! You can grow all your favorites through the winter and all you need is a few pots, some soil, and a sunny window. Some gardeners move outside potted herbs inside in the fall but this can be stressful for the plant and runs the risk of introducing outside pests to your indoor growing environment. And usually by the end of one growing season, herbs have either gotten too large to move or have gone to flower and seed, neither of which gives you tasty fresh herbs. We recommend starting with fresh, new plants that you’ll keep inside until next spring. This article will teach you how to plant, grow, and maintain and indoor herb garden.

Choosing the Right Herbs

Some herbs such as mint do not do well indoors as they need room to spread and a long period of sunshine to grow. Choose instead herbs that you’ll use frequently in winter cooking such as thyme, oregano, sage, or rosemary. These herbs also grow in a compact style so they won’t need extra-large pots or a lot of room.

Start with a pot about two times the size of the plant’s root ball and one that has good drainage.. Be sure to put a drip tray underneath it! We recommend one herb per pot so you can better control each one’s light and inputs. Some may grow faster than others and could compete with a pot companion for light, water, and nutrients.

Light Needs for Indoor Herb Gardens.

Position your indoor herb garden near a south- or west-facing window so your herbs will get at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Just make sure it’s not too cold or drafty close to the window. You can also supplement a full-spectrum grow light placed 6 to 12 inches above the herbs for 12 to 16 hours a day or plant your herbs in an all-in-one tabletop herb garden.

Soil, Water, and Feed Needs of Indoor Herbs

Most herbs will do just fine with a regular potting soil mix as long as they have good drainage. Like all potted plants, though, they need more frequent feeding. Be sure to choose a food- and pet-safe fertilizer.

Speaking of pets, like many household plants, some common herbs are toxic to cats and dogs. Be sure to research the plant you’re bringing in and keep it in a location your pets can’t reach.

Just like outside plants, your indoor garden will need regular watering. Unlike outdoor plants, though, they will not have their preferred humid environment (you’d be surprised how much plants get from humid air). If possible keep a small humidifier going near your plant (not straight on them). Alternatively, fill your waterproof drip trays with decorative pebbles and let the water sit in them to slowly evaporate around the plant.  

Many herbs such as rosemary, thyme, and sage are susceptible to overwatering so allow your plants to dry slightly out between watering. This especially true as winter days shorten which signals to your plants to use less water and nutrients and slow down growing. Adding a grow light during the darkest days of winter will help ease this change. Use either filtered water or let plant water sit for a few hours in an open container to off-gas chlorine and other chemicals in treated city water.

Like all houseplants, indoor herb gardens are susceptible to pests. Keep an eye out for common indoor pests like aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies and treat appropriately with food-safe methods.

To use herbs, just snip off as much as you need for cooking or drying but leave at least one-third of the plant for regrowth. Don’t let your herbs flower or go to seed (unless you want the seed) because this greatly slows down leaf growth.

Once spring rolls around again, you can plant these herbs outside to get a head start on the season. Just make sure you properly harden them off so you don’t shock their systems with an outdoor lifestyle!

Now is a great time to plant an indoor herb garden so you’ll never be without fresh herbs. We have sage, rosemary, thyme, and few other varieties still in stock but they are going quickly. Shop here.

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How to Plant a Perennial Flower Garden in Any Zone

perennial flower garden with birdbath surrounded by purple coneflowers, yellow rudbeckia, milkweed, purple phlox, blue fescue grass, and other green plants.

Perennial flowers and plants bring beauty, scent, and pollinators to your landscape. They only get bigger and better with each year; they’re naturally hardy and resistant to pests and critters; and eventually they can be divided to create even more gardens. Best of all, perennials require little to no maintenance after the first year of planting. This article will help you choose the best perennial plants for your garden and give tips on how to plant and care for them in the first season.

Step One: Choose your Location

While we don’t generally believe in gardening rules, you must follow this one rule when choosing perennials: pick plants suitable to your USDA Planting Zone. These plants can survive the coldest temperatures that come your way in the winter and the highest heat in the summer. (Find your zone here by zipcode.) Perennials can be planted outside of these zones – some people even plant them in containers – but the chances of survival to next year will be low.

In addition, if you’re planting perennials to support pollinators, choose plants that are native to your zone. Bees, butterflies, and birds will dine on just about any plant you put out but they also will come back looking for more. If their trusted food source from last season isn’t there, they have to use valuable energy searching for more.

Once you’ve found your zone, you’ll need to map out the area where you’ll be planting. You’ll need these three pieces of info to help choose plants:

  1. What kind of sunshine does this area get? Many perennials prefer full sun but can tolerate some shade (see the chart below). As you place your plants in your plan consider the mature height of each plant and plant the shortest at the front so taller plants will not shade them.
  2. How big is the garden space? This will help you space plants so they have the proper room to grow and spread with time.
  3. Water and drainage. Most perennials are not picky about water but all require good drainage and will not do well sitting in always-wet soils. For your own enjoyment, make sure you plant near enough a water source so you’re able to keep plants watered in the first season. Subsequent years you will be able water less.

Bonus points if you can locate your new perennial bed near your vegetable garden or fruit trees! Pollinators will flock to these flowers and will naturally do their work on your veggies, berries, and fruit blossoms too.

Step Two: Decide on Design

This is where the “no rules” in gardening comes into play! You can plant your flowers however you like. Maybe you want all one color or every color possible. Maybe you want neat rows along your foundation or an entire front yard prairie look. If you like it, you can plant it. The only guideline here is to give each plant the room they need to grow and to combine plants with the same growing needs. For instance, you can’t put a sun-loving plant and a shade-loving plant together in the same garden!

If this is your first time planting a large flower bed, remember this: when you first plant your flowers, the bed will look not full enough. You will be tempted to plant your plants closer together. Resist this urge! These plants will quickly double in size (or more) and fill out your beds. And the more room you give them to grow, the healthier they’ll be in coming years.

As you plot out your garden, consider the blooming time of each flower – some will bloom in early spring, others in mid-summer and some all season long. Combine these so you’ll have blossoms from spring through fall. And don’t be afraid to pick flowers frequently during the season, they will only bloom more!

Step Three: Planting

Perennials can be planted from spring through early fall – as long as the plant has enough time to establish roots before winter. The first season of planting will be a growth year so don’t expect a lot of flowers. This first year, too, your plants need a little extra care in watering and fertilizer so they can put down good roots. Follow the planting instructions on depth and space included with each plant. After planting, give the plant a good drink of water and mulch around the base of the plant (keep mulch away from the stem) so moisture will stay around the roots. Mulching is helpful but not essential in following years.

Right after planting, your plants may look wilted. This is transplant shock and happens to most plants. Just keep watering on a normal schedule and the plant will quickly perk up as it adjusts to its new home. Be sure to put markers by each plant for the first season so you know what’s a plant and what’s a weed.

Journal Tip: Document the locations of each plant in your garden journal and take pictures of the new plants. This will help you identify next year as new leaves emerge. Keeping a journal of perennials is also helpful to future generations who enjoy your garden and is very much appreciated by potential owners if you ever sell.

Step Four: Fall and Winter Care

If you’ve chosen plants appropriate to your Zone, you do not need to do much when the season ends. Most plants can be left unpruned through fall and winter and many actually provide interesting winter structure and hibernation support for pollinators. They can be cut back in early spring before new growth emerges.

Do not cover your perennials with mulch or straw for the winter, this can lead to mold or rot of the plant and root crown. However, in years with no snow cover, plants can sustain wind damage if they are exposed. This will not kill the plant but it can damage branches – winterkill from wind is more common in large bushes such as spirea. If you have a dry fall, be sure to give them a good drink before the ground freezes. Refer to the specific plant you’re putting in, though, for detailed winter care.

Shop Our Large Collection of Perennials Here.

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Cowboy Caviar (Black Bean Salsa)

Cowboy Caviar

Fresh summer flavor with black beans and jalapeno peppers
Print Recipe
Course Appetizer
Cuisine Mexican

Ingredients
  

  • 45 oz black beans (canned) — drain and rinse thoroughly
  • 11 oz Mexicorn (canned) — frozen or fresh cooked corn can be substituted
  • 20 oz Rotel
  • 2 tomatoes, preferably Roma — diced into small pieces
  • 2 bunches green onions — diced into small pieces
  • 1 hot pepper (jalapeno, serrano, anaheim chili) — optional to your taste, diced into small pieces
  • 2 tbsp freshly squeezed lime juice
  • 1/4 tsp cumin
  • 1 bunch cilantro — optional, rinsed, drained, chopped for garnish

Instructions
 

  • Mix everything but cilantro together and let sit overnight. Garnish with cilantro (if desired) and serve with tortilla chips or whole grain crackers. Also good as a topping for hot dogs or tacos.

Notes

You’ll want to make a double batch because this goes fast!
Keyword black bean salsa, cowboy caviar recipe
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How to Water Your Garden

watering can

Watering the garden seems like it should be pretty straightforward. If the soil looks dry, you should water, right? It’s not that simple and infrequent or inconsistent watering stresses your plants and can even damage your harvest. Rainfall is always our first choice for watering (which makes rain barrels a must-have) but at some point you may need water from an external source. This article will explain best watering practices and share tips on how to conserve water while nourishing your plants.

When to Water Your Garden.

Begin with an eye towards the weather – if you’ve had good soaking rains (1” or more) then you don’t need to water; if the weather’s been hot and windy, then you probably should water. Soil attributes also determine when to water: sandy, fast-draining soils need more frequent watering; heavier, water-retaining clay soils can go a little longer in between watering. The soil’s top appearance doesn’t always show the need for water – remember that plants’ roots go deep down and that’s where the moisture level is important. Poke into the soil with your finger or a measuring stick – if it’s dry below 1/2”, then it’s time to water.

TIP: If possible, avoid watering in the late evening or at night – the plant leaves will sit all night with moisture on them which can lead to diseases and mold growth. 

Give Your Plants the Best Water.

Chemically-treated or softened water is not ideal for your plants. If you are using city water, filter your water by attaching an inline water filter between your outside faucet and hose. Designed for use in RVs and boats, these inexpensive filters will last all summer and will filter out most of the chemicals that municipalities use to treat water. These can be bought online or at your local sporting goods store.

Soaker Hoses are a Must-Have.

Drip irrigation (aka soaker hoses) make your watering life so much easier and it’s better for your plants. Within less than an hour, you can arrange soaker hoses throughout your garden beds and they will stay in place all summer (make sure you to secure with landscaping pins). Once in place, follow the timing directions on the instructions that come with your hose. This method of water keeps soil from splashing on the leaves, protects the soil from eroding around the base of the plant, and does a much better job at getting water deep into the soil. The one caveat with soaker hoses is you will not be able to deliver water-dissolved fertilizer to the plants — create a reminder schedule so you’ll remember to add this step with manual watering every couple of weeks.

Where to Water Veggie Plants.

So much of the “how” depends on what you’re watering. Grass requires a broad sprinkler approach; trees and bushes require a soaking that reaches the root perimeter; and garden veggies and flowers require consistent watering. Research what you’re watering first but in general try to avoid splashing water on the plants’ leaves and focus on the base of the plant. Use mulch around plants, too, to help retain moisture longer. Aim for consistent moisture at that ½” depth and don’t just automatically water every day. Remember, too, that containers will dry out much more quickly than garden beds.

How to Measure Water Amounts.

It’s easy to calculate how much water you’re giving each plant. Start with a five-gallon bucket; put in your hose or hold your sprayer open into the bucket; and time how long it takes to fill the bucket. If it takes five minutes, you’ll know you’re watering at one gallon per minute.